From late November to March, the beaches of Cape Vidal become a nursery. On summer nights, two ancient species haul themselves out of the surf to lay their eggs above the tideline: the loggerhead, and the enormous leatherback, which can weigh more than half a tonne and is one of the largest reptiles alive. Some of these turtles have crossed whole oceans to nest on the very beach where they hatched.

A guided turtle walk is a quiet, patient, deeply moving thing. You set out after dark with a licensed guide who knows how to find a nesting female without disturbing her, and you watch, at a respectful distance, as she digs, lays and covers a clutch of eggs before returning to the sea. Later in the season, if you are lucky, you may see the reverse: a scramble of hatchlings no bigger than your palm making their frantic dash for the water.

It is strictly protected, and rightly so. No lights, no flash, no touching; night walks on the nesting beaches are only permitted with a licensed guide. It is a highlight of a summer stay.